Black-browed Albatross (Thalassarche melanophrys) - Falkland Islands

One would be remiss when discussing the Falkland Islands not to include the albatross.  The islands are the breeding ground for 70% of the world’s population of Black-browed Albatross (Thalassarche melanophrys).  Several colonies dot the archipelago with the largest colony located on Steeple Jason Island, an isolated island in West Falklands.

LEFT:  Male and female black-browed albatross court to reunite the monogamous lifetime bond that unites the pair.

This species normally nests on steep slopes covered with tussock grass and sometimes on cliffs. They are an annual breeder laying one egg from between September and early November.  Incubation is done by both sexes and lasts roughly 70 days.  After hatching, the chicks take 120 to 130 days to fledge. Juveniles will return to the colony after 2 to 3 years but only to practice courtship rituals, as they will start breeding around the 10^th year.

This delayed time until sexual maturity is one of the reasons that these birds, also called Mollyhawks because of their distinguishing black brow along the eye, is listed on the IUCN Red List as endangered.  The population of albatross in the Falklands has declined 67% since population counts began in 1964.  This decline is attributed to the increase in long line fishing practiced along the Patagonian Shelf and in particular off the coast of South Africa which is one of the regions the birds migrate to when feeding.

During my three weeks in the islands I was fortunate to visit 2 breeding locations and spent several days at one of the colonies.  Sitting quietly along the cliff edge for many hours a day, the birds became very accustomed to your presence and for the most part lost their fear of humans and became increasingly curious.  I had one fellow leave his nest and adolescent chick and waddle toward me to peck at my boot laces, hand and camera lens.  It’s experiences such as this that make the often laborious task of wildlife photography worthwhile.  If more people could appreciate the connection that occurs between species during such occurrences, then perhaps more people would be concerned about protecting habitat and allowing space for wild animals to remain wild.

In the late afternoon when the breeze freshens is when the albatross truly show their grace.  Taxi and liftoff is somewhat ungainly and is final approach and landing, however, in flight their nothing that matches the flight dynamics of the albatross.  Their massive wingspan allows great lift and its possible for albatross to fly distances of thousands of kilometers with barely a wing beat.  Often albatross can be seen skimming over waves and swells flying an almost nape of the earth pattern.  They achieve this ability by harnessing the air pressure that the passing waves produce.

LEFT:  Black-browed albatross looks carefully at its own reflection in the camera lens.

I recall one afternoon when weather conditions were inclement for the best pilots to remain grounded; visibility was reduced to less than 100 meters and winds were buffeting to 40 knots.  The albatrosses were cleared for takeoff and several dozen individuals were flying patterns along the cliff edge.  Sitting on the cliff top was hazardous not for the risk of falling, but by being struck by one of birds diving overhead and making low passes to investigate me.  Often all that was heard was a whoosh as an albatross cleared by head by inches!  This said, the bird is a master in the air and if I kept still there was minimal chance that I would be hit unless a bird was in landing approach, which is very ungainly and would cause concern to the most experienced pilot.

ABOVE: Black-browed albatross sits quietly above sea cliffs waiting to reunite with its mate.

To view other posts concerning the shy albatross, click here.

To view my post on the wandering albatross, click here.

Rockhopper Penguins (Eudyptes chrysocome), Falkland Islands

Rockhopper Penguins (Eudyptes chrysocome chrysocome) are the smallest of the crested penguins with a circumpolar distribution. They are also one of the most common penguin species in the Falklands. The penguins which weigh between 2 and 2.7 kg get their name because they move around by hopping keeping both feet together. Despite, what may seem as hindrance, they are exceptionally agile on land; I was constantly amazed by their ability to tackle the most challenging terrain as they ledge-hopped on precipitous cliff faces!

If you inspect the cliffs closely you can see the narrow cuts and crevices created by the sharp toe claws on the penguin s feet. The carved sandstone provided evidence to the millions of penguins that have moved across the rock over thousands of years.

LEFT: After an arduous cllimb of 50 meters, a rockhopper penguin bellows its success in the late afternoon light.

Every evening the rockhoppers porpoise towards the steep sea cliffs riding the large South Atlantic swells. More than once the penguins, who gather into a raft for safety just out from the breakers, are pulverised onto the sharp rocks. I watched a small group land successfully onto a flat rock and begin to hop to safety only to be swept away again by another large wave. If this is not enough, predators cruise the coast near the breeding colonies seeking an easy kill. Southern elephant seals, leapoard seals and killer whales regularly lie in ambush waiting for the penguins to begin their waterborne assault.

Rockhoppers live in large colonies often mixed with albatross or imperial shags. They are noisy and quarrelsome little creatures but their comical antics and inquisitive personalities make them very endearing and they soon become the favourite penguin for many visitors.

Currently they listed as vulnerable by several conservation agencies with an overall decline in most populations. The speculated reason for this decline is the rise in sea surface temperature (due to global warming) which has affected the prey stocks of rockhopper penguins.

Breeding
Rockhopper penguins are very synchronised in their breeding cycle both within a colony and across years. Males return to the island in mid-October and females a few days later. Nests are re-established (with most returning to the same nest sites and mates) and two eggs laid, with the smaller first egg never producing a chick to fledging.

LEFT: The afternoon rush hour as food-ladden rockhopper penguins make their way to the colony to rejoin their mate and offspring

Females take the first incubation shift while males, who have not eaten for some 4 weeks, go to sea to forage. On the males return, the females depart for a foraging trip and return as the chicks hatch. Females provide all food for the chick when it is young and when absent from the nest (food foraging) the male will undertake guard duty. But once chicks enter a creche, both parents forage.
Chicks fledge at the end of February. At this time adults go to sea to fatten for the moult, which they undertake in early March. After finishing the moult they depart the breeding areas in late April.

Diet and Feeding

Rockhopper penguins eat predominantly euphausiids, myctophid fish and squid which they hunt for in the Polar Frontal, Zone.

LEFT: Rockhopper penguins on the move. It's amazing the speed they can travel at by hopping.

In my next Falklands post, we will discuss the largest seabird that breeds on the Falklands the Black-browed Albatross.

Magellanic Penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus), Falkland Islands

Magellanic Penguins

Magellanic penguins (Spheniscus magellanicus) are widespread in the Falklands and I found them on every island I visited. Unlike the other penguins in the Falklands, magellanics live in burrows. They are very shy and photographing them is not easy as they are apt to scarper quickly into their burrows if approached too closely.  However, you can get quite close to them if you maintain a low profile, avoid eye contact and approach them very slowly and carefully.

Although the magellanics form large breeding colonies intersected by underground tunnels, many breed away from the colony either solitarily or in small groups.  During the breeding season the penguins collect leaves or other vegetation to line the confines of their burrows constructed in the peat or sand.

Two eggs are laid deep within the burrow and incubation lasts 39–42 days, a task which the parents share in 10-15 day shifts. The chicks are cared for by both parents for 29 days and are fed every two to three days. Normally, both are raised through adulthood, though occasionally only one chick is raised.  Magellanics are monogamous and the male returns to the same burrow every year to re-connect with his female partner.

LEFT:  Just before dusk a Magellanic comes ashore

Magellanics construct their burrows wherever the earth is soft.  As such, it's not uncommon to find burrows in the sand dunes and in the peat bogs.  Those penguins that move into the peat bog seemingly take on the appearance of the bog and their white chests are quickly covered in mud.

The penguins feed on a variety of seafood including: crustaceans, krill, sardines and squid.  Although this species is not endangered, climate change is affecting their food source

Penguins Stop Military Landing

During the Falklands War in 1982, the British decided not to launch an amphibious attach on one of the beaches that was occupied by magellanic penguins, as they were concerned that their vehicles and soldiers would become “bogged down” in the many deep burrows and tunnels that these penguins construct. 

LEFT:  A magellanic Penguin stands outside its burrow with flippers outstretched warming itself in the morning light.  The burrow is cconstructed within peaty soil.

If your keen on penguins and want to see more images of these delightful creatures, navigate to either my FlickR page or web gallery page.

In my next post we'll have a look at the most outrageous of all penguins - the rockhopper!  Then we'll change tact and examine one of the most majestic birds found in the Falklands, the black-browed albatross.

Gentoo Penguins (Pygoscelis papua), Falkland Islands

Gentoo Penguins

Gentoos are the second largest penguin species and are recognisable by the white stripe extending across the top of their heads like a bonnet. They breed in large colonies which can be situated a kilometre or more inland. Each morning the penguins make the long journey down to the sea where they eat fish and crustaceans. In the afternoon they return to the colony to feed their chicks.

LEFT:  Gentoo penguin parent flaps its flippers and brays, so its offspring can identify itself with the parent and obtain a feed.

Breeding Time and Nesting

January is breeding time for the gentoos and many youngsters in advanced stages of growth continually chase one another and their mothers around the colony braying and squawking in an attempt to receive additional food.  During this cat and mouse chase the personal space of other individuals is breeched enlisting further ruckus as verbal protests are made.

LEFT: Gentoo penguin rests on egg from a nest made from sand, beach debris and small stones.

Life can be tough as a gentoo youngster and on several occasions I witnessed skuas diving on the colony in an attempt to separate a youngest from its mother.  Once separated, the skua would capture the fledgling in its strong beak and carry it away from the colony to provide food for its own young.  Witnessing events such as this is when you realize that when we (humans) make a mistake more than often we learn from the event, however, when wildlife make a mistake they often loose their life.  As such, evolution ensues that only the strongest and most resourceful animals survive to pass along genes to the next generation.

Gentoo penguins make a small nest surrounded by stones and lined with whatever material can be found.  Stone stealing amongst mothers is common place and its amusing to watch one parent steal a stone for its nest only to return from another stone steeling mission to find that the original owner has stolen the stone back for its own nest.  Stone exchanges can go on for hours.  Once a gentoo has enough stones it will lay its egg within the stone arrangement and incubate the egg by lying on top of the egg.  After birth, the youngster will be protected within the stone circle by its mother and only be left unattended when the mother penguin goes to sea to capture food for the youngster.

Let’s Surf…….

Watching the gentoo penguins surf in to land on the beach is a sight that needs to be seen to be fully comprehended.  Penguins, fresh from fishing, group together outside the breakers for their amphibious beach landing.  They group together mainly for protection as other animals such as sea lions, elephant seals, killer whales and leopard seals patrol the outside breakers searching for penguins on which to feed. 

ABOVE:  Gentoo penguin breaches the surf, stands and walks toward dryer sand.

By grouping together the penguins hope to confuse any potential predator by sheer numbers, speed and agility.  Eventually, a penguin will make a move toward the beach and the group will follow, porpoise through the swells and surf until reaching the sand.  Here they will stand and make their way out of the water to briefly preen before moving up onto the dry sand.

Gentoos are smaller in size than king penguins, however, this lack of superior size is outclassed by their agility, raucous behaviour and shear numbers of individuals within a colony. 

King Penguins (Aptenodytes patagonicus), Falkland Islands

Penguins are the most conspicuous residents of the Falkland Islands with five penguin species calling the islands home.  Although penguins are members of the class Aves and are similar in many respects to their aerial cousins, they cannot fly and when on the land they cannot help but appear a little ungainly.  This ungainliness ceases once they become waterborne and to witness dozens of penguins porpoise through the water is an amazing sight.  Beneath the waves they are graceful as any of their aerial relatives as they use their strong flippers to propel themselves through the water.  Their tails are used as rudders and it is quite astonishing to see the flexibility in movement made by these animals when on the move.

LEFT: A King Penguin stand erect flapping ots flippers in the morning sun.

Penguins can dive to astonishing depths to feed on small fish and cephalopods and are exceptionally adapt at capturing their prey.  To aid in the capture of prey, the beaks of some species have serrated teeth (saw backs) which are reverse positioned.  Any fish or squid captured cannot escape forwards out of the beak because its body is pushed against the direction of the teeth.

King Penguins

The King Penguin is the largest of the penguin species found in the Falkland Islands and is aptly named as it exudes a grace similar to that of royalty.  The exceptionally attractive colours of this penguin define themselves in the penguin world as upper echelon; a king penguin will stand royally either alone or in a small group, occasionally stretching itself to full height to bray.  Rarely do the kings run, but they walk very quickly.  They have an average weight of around 17 kilos and stand at a tad over a meter in height.   

I was lucky to be able to share for a few days,  the house belonging to the conservation officer responsible for the colony, and as such was able to spend an unlimited time observing and photographing the kings as they went about their daily business. 

Poor Weather and Challenging Photographic Conditions

The weather wasn’t the best and dappled light would present itself between cloudy overcast conditions as rain squalls passed through the area.  The light wasn’t an issue for me but the wind was!  For much of my time in this area gale force winds blew ensuring that photography was very challenging. 

LEFT: A King Penguin adolescent undergoes its first moult.  Traces of the long hairs found on juvenile animals is still evident.

Using a long lens was problematic due to the wind causing excessive vibration of the lens, and using a lens close to the sand was painful as entrained sand entered every crack and crevice of a lens and camera body – even if covered with a protective cover. I could have increased the ISO to achieve a faster shutter speed to counter against the wind vibrating the lens, but I wanted the photographs to be as noise free as possible.  It was a matter of waiting for a brief lull during wind gusts and optimizing this time for picture taking.  But the weather didn’t seem to bother the kings who grouped together in a tight colony protecting the females with eggs and youngsters within.

LEFT:  Obtaining a good vantage point to shoot downards into the colony is difficult, however this image shows you the density of penguins in a small section of the colony.

Moulting

The Kings were in various stages of development.  In the center of the colony were the mothers with eggs and very young day old chicks, whilst intermingled throughout were the youngsters and adolescents , the former still sporting long hairy down coats.  Some individuals were part way through their first moult and the striking colours and pattern which is prominent on this species of penguin were only beginning to show.

To Swim or not to Swim

At the beach, despite the frigid and windy conditions, a small group of kings moved along the high tide mark, waddling to and fro seeking guidance from the lead penguin who was searching for an appropriate place to enter the surf zone to swim.  Other penguins nearby hunkered down in the blustery conditions seeking rest and I was amazed that they could even think of sleep whilst being continually sand-blasted.

LEFT:  A group of King Penguins waddle along the beach waiting for the leader to decide whether it's safe to enter the water.  You can see the windblown sand that was nearly always present in the first metre above the ground.

Occasionally an argument ensured between the individuals waiting to swim, but rather than verbal exchange, each penguin used their exceptionally powerful flippers to maintain personal space or settle the disagreement.  As a flipper from one bird struck another you could hear the swak of the impact.  The behavior reminded me of a New York City policeman clubbing a felon with his truncheon or baton.

The penguins were not worried about my presence and after several hours observing and photographing them I almost felt like an honorary member of the colony.  But, although for the most part approachable, they are still wild animals and it's not prudent to get too close as this stresses the animals unduly.

In my next Falkkand Islands post, we will look at some of the other smaller penguins that live in islands.