Falkland Islands, South Atlantic - 1st Post

In late December and for most of January I was located in the Falkland Islands, a small archipelago of islands located off the southern most tip of Argentina in the South Atlantic ocean.  The Falkland Islands are renowned as a pristine environment of subtle beauty that is home to a wealth of fascinating wildlife.  My main reason for visiting these remote islands was to photograph the Black-browed Albatross and the Southern Elephant Seal – both species breed and haul out on several of the islands. 

LEFT:  Different coloured Landrovers parked in side street of Stanley attest to this vehicle's popularity in the Falklands.  To be honest, this is the first time I have seen a purple coloured landrover!

Geology, Geomorphology and Palaeogeography

The Falklands has an interesting geological history, with the oldest Granitic and Gneiss basement rocks forming during the Precambrian Period about 1000 million years ago.  Above these rocks lie the quartzites of the Port Stevens Formation.  These highly deformed metamorphic rocks, originally deposited about 420 million years ago during the Silurian Period, outcrop as the sea cliffs around Cape Meredith, the southernmost point of West Falkland.  

LEFT:  The eroded remains of a mountain range formed during the initial breakup of Gondwana. 

Palaeogeographical data indicates that the Falkland Islands were located adjacent to South Africa during the Lower Permian Period approximately 300 million years ago.  It was at this time that the major continental land masses that we know of today were joined together in a giant super continent named Gondwanaland.  During the Jurassic Period, around 200 million years ago, tectonic forces caused the large super continent of Gondwana to break up, and the continental plate on which the Falklands rested, slowly began to move westwards to reposition itself  adjacent to the geologically different Argentina.  To see a map showing the Falkland Islands geology click here.

At the beginning of the continental break up, major changes occurred at the margin of Gondwana when tectonic forces squeezed rock formations together causing intense folding, thrust faulting before forming a mountain range which is now seen as a thin spine migrating its way through the centre of the islands (see image above).  Later, the underlying rocks that carried the neophyte Falklands were intruded by several volcanic dykes, further aided in the separation process of an already fragmented continent. 

The Ice Age & Sea Level Rise

The present day scenery of the Falklands owes its origin in many cases to the effects of the last Ice Age.  Low lying hills supported small glaciers which carved their way downwards towards the sea.  In the wake of these glaciers are cirque lakes, rock crags, moraines and boulder streams -  often called rock runs.  During this time, areas not covered by ice were permafrost.  Eventually the climate warmed, and at the end of the ice age sea levels rose.  It’s because of this sea level rise that much of the island’s coastline in indented with bays and coves.  As the sea rose, it flooded low lying areas and river valleys producing meandering creeks and inlets that characterise many parts of the islands. 

ABOVE:  Boulder or rock streams called rock runs in the Falklands are caused by glacial and periglacial activity.  The rocks are moved by the continual thaw and freeze action of ice.

With the increase in ambient temperature came a change to the island’s vegetation.  Permafrost melted and was replaced with peat bogs some 3-4 meters in depth.  Because of the continual buffeting of gale force winds, the land’s surface is mostly treeless with the tallest tress being almost prone scrubs that closely resemble  Japanese ornamental bonsais.  Much of the land is covered in a variety of grasses of which tussock grass is the most obvious to the untrained eye.

Geopolitics and Colonisation

The islands were initially occupied by the  Spanish and French before being colonised by the British in the 1700’s.  The British used the islands as a base for whaling, sealing, and beef production and as a harbour for seafaring activities in South Georgia (more whaling & sealing).  A company was established called the Falklands Island Company (FIC) and it was through this company that many of the islands were initially inhabited.  Later, the company downsized due to economic constraints and many of the islands formally owned by the FIC were sold to individuals to do as they please.  Often the new owners took up pastoral activities and began to live a rural and frugal lifestyle.  Interestingly. Although the Falklands is closer to Argentina than Britain it’s not a colony, but rather a self governing territory; all administration is in-house with defence and  international policy being provided by the UK.  ABOVE:  The islanders are very proud of the heritage and often Union jacks and Falkland Island flags are flown or motifs painted on vehicles and houses.

The War

Politically the region sparked in 1982, when the Argentinean Government decided to invade the Falkland islands under the premise that the islands, because of their proximity, belonged to Argentina.  This was despite Argentina not having any past habitation of the islands.  The invasion began a 3 month war in which the invaders were repelled from the islands by the military forces of the United Kingdom.  Despite the passage of time, both adversaries hold little love for each other and minor non aggressive skirmishes occur on a regular basis.  The United Kingdom treat the situation seriously and have deployed Royal Airforce and Royal Navy units to the Falklands to provide continued military protection.  It’s not uncommon to be peacefully photographing wildlife on a secluded and remote headland to hear the load roar of two RAF Euro Fighters as they fly overhead on a routine patrol. 

ABOVE:  Not used and not dumped - an old Series 1 Landrover dating from the 1960's is left abandoned beside a shed in Stanley.  It's interesting to notethe chnage of colours that British Landrover used.  Dull greys, yellows and greens in the 60's that simulate the military heritage of this vehicle type, to bright colours in the late 90's such as purple, red, and racing car green; colours that appeal more to the "yuppy" generation.

Although I flew on a civilian airliner (LAN), ingress to the islands is via the RAF airbase located near the town of Stanley.  The first thing any visitor observes when leaving the aircraft is a number of heavily armed RAF military police with large dogs on leaches.  Signage indicates that military personnel are to be vigilant at all times and this is reinforced when travelling through the airbase after immigration control – armed soldiers are easily seen and it becomes obvious that the UK Military treat the Falklands is a forward base rather than a rest camp.

Islands in Time

Visiting the islands was very much like climbing out of a tardus time capsule; the present seems far away.   Everything looks and feels late 1950’s England.  Perhaps it’s the incredible number and diversity  of old Landrovers that ply the unsealed roads, the old sheds that litter nearly every backyard in Stanley, the “Doctor Who” red telephone boxes, or the fact that modern fashion has not seemed to have taken hold in this sleepy backwater of the UK.  One local proudly informed me that if the shop has my size, I buy it – colour and style have little to do with the purchase equation. 

If you were searching for words that describe life in the Falklands, it would be eclectic and functional.  Aesthetics has very little to do with how you do something; case in point being the green roof with pink second hand guttering – hey it works! 

Recycling, History and Gardens

What we classify as “junk” a local classifies as “something that may be of use – someday!  Everything is kept and often stored in a shed that takes pride and place along with a small local garden.  The small gardens remind me of “Victory Gardens” a term coined during the Second World War when Brits had to fend for themselves because of the Blitz.  It’s unfortunate that this concept of recycling  is out of vogue in many western countries whose occupants have a buy and throw away mentality.

Stanley is located along one side of an inlet in which on the opposite shore, outlined in large boulders are the names of many ships that have plied these waters.  One ship, the “Beagle” hints at a time when Charles Darwin visited the island to study it’s natural history.

Another aspect difficult not to notice, at least in Stanley, is the Falkland Islanders choice of paint colour.  Bright colours such as red, green, yellow and blue have been used paint the trim of some houses and sheds in an attempt to offset the otherwise bland colour of white wash.  On the roof of one house has been painted a large colourful union jack.  I learnt that the local council didn’t approve of the design  as it didn’t reflect the town’s style, however, the strongly nationalistic islander was not persuaded and the motif remains.

The Falklands is sparsely populated with roughly 2500 islanders, many of which inhabit the capital Stanley.  It’s because of this spare population and lack of large scale development that many of the surrounding islands are rich in wildlife. 

In my next post I will discuss some of the animals that call the Falkland’s home and include some wildlife photographs. 

Hammerhead Sharks, Indonesia

I had be told that this area was prone at certain times of the year to schools of hammerhead sharks, however, didn’t expect to see them.  I’ve dived with lone hammerheads on several occasions, but I have never encountered a large school.  Sharks aren’t common to see, and when you do see them often they are fleeting glimpses that last less than a few seconds.

LEFT:  A Scalloped Hammerhead Shark surrounded by Banner Fish cruises past.

The water I was diving was along the edge of a tectonic plate and as such was very deep; a coral encrusted shelf sloped away into the abyss and the sea bottom was over a kilometre below.  Unfortunately, on this day the weather was overcast and the water was not as clear as I would have liked.  The current has picked up along the reef edge and entrained quite a bit of silt and sand in the water column.  Levelling out at a tad over 30 meters (100 feet) I hovered above a sandy plateau that extended a short distance before dropping off to unimaginable depth.

The Edge of the School

I then saw my first hammerhead in the distance.  It was a large individual reaching roughly 4 meters (15 feet) in length.  It kept its distance and disappeared as quickly as it had appeared. Making my way over the sandy plateau I began to descend further until reaching 47 meters (150 feet) in depth.

LEFT:   Swimming into the school, several Scalloped hammerhead sharks patrol beside me.

It was then that I saw a mass of movement directly in front of me; I had reached the edge of a school of Scalloped Hammerhead sharks.  Quickly counting, I calculated that 9 sharks were immediately within my vision, these sharks swam past me to be replaced by more sharks following.  I swam into the school and all I could see was shark!  Every few meters there was a shark, followed by another which was beside another – there were sharks everywhere – WOW.  I noted that all the individuals were females and I wondered where the males were!

I knew I had to photograph quickly as the time allowed at 47 meters is minimal and I was already at the verge of entering decompression.  Moving my strobes out from the housing, I attempted to position them in such as way as to minimise the back scatter, that I knew would occur from the suspending silt and sand.  I fired a few frames and as the duel strobes (flashes) whined to recharge, I observed that the sharks became a little agitated; one individual dropped its pectoral fins and arched toward me like a fighter plane peeling away from the squadron.  The shark came within arm’s reach before veering off to join its brethren.   The reason for the behaviour is quite simple, and occurs with most active sharks when divers use electronic strobes.  The recycling from the battery pack to the flash cell causes a high frequency whine which is picked up by the Ampullae of Lorenzini, the name for a shark’s super-sensory electrical device; this momentarily excites the shark.

Fearful

I wasn’t prepared for the fast approach and immediately felt apprehensive; suffering the effect of slight narcosis did not add to the situation.  As my heart rate increased due to my sudden apprehension, two hammerheads swam in my direction to investigate; sharks are similar to dogs in that they can smell fear!  In situations like this fear can feed on fear itself and spiral until one looses control of the situation. 

Realizing this, I regained my composure, aimed and fired off another frame followed by another.  I swam towards the school again and was annoyed that there was so much sediment in the water; I hoped the light from the flashes was not reflecting on the sediment, but there was little time to look at the camera LCD screen to check – things were happening very fast as hammerheads glided in from the main school to investigate me and my whining strobes!

I was over 45 meters in depth and well into a 15 minutes decompression obligation (the time I would have to spend at a shallower depth to allow nitrogen off gassing; failure to complete this time may lead to decompression sickness).  I was trying to swim somewhat beneath the sharks so I could shoot with a slight upwards angle; a photographic composition like this would show the power, size and presence that such an animal deserved. 

I Wanted the Perfect Shot

I wanted to get the perfect shot.  I wanted the right composition and exposure.  I wanted three sharks in the correct position.  But, there wasn’t the time.  To continue would be foolhardy.  I then realized that my time was up.  I had to depart immediately for a shallower depth or suffer the consequences of either low air or too greater decompression obligation.  It’s at times like this that you must understand that the photograph is second to your own safety. 

I had reached the threshold and I was pleased that I had listened to reason and not continued.  With slight regret at not been able to take the perfect photograph, I slowly ascended to my decompression depth.  However, I was elated at being able to swim with of a school of hammerheads at close quarters; the experience transcends the photographs! 

BELOW:  A Scalloped Hammerhead shark swims above me before changing direction abruptly to make another pass. Encounters with large predatory animals are uncommon and this experience will remain with me for sometime.  Most of the images on this dive were shot at 35mm at ISO400, 1/125th @f8.

Natural History

Scalloped Hammerhead Sharks (Sphyrna lewini) are probably the most commonly found species of hammerheads located in coastal regions, appearing in very shallow waters such as estuaries and inlets. Their distribution in the water reaches from the surface down to a depth of approx. 275 m. The young, however, remain mostly in shallow waters along the shore to avoid the danger of falling into the mouths of predators. At certain times of the year and places, and during certain phases of their lives, scalloped hammerheads form very large schools, sometimes counting hundreds of individuals, but they also swim the oceans alone. Some populations remain stationary, others clearly wander, migrating in the direction of the poles in summer. Some sexually-related migrations have also been observed, e.g. females who undertake migrations during particular periods of their sexual development. 

As already mentioned, this shark species tends to form huge schools whose function is presumed to be manifold and may, among other things, concern feeding habits and reproduction. Although many studies also consider this behaviour to be a group protective function, this is somewhat questionable since the animals have practically no natural enemies after reaching full maturity. Groups of scalloped hammerheads prefer staying in regions which have pinnacles or sea mounts which reach from great depths practically to the water's surface. Latest research also shows that these sharks can make use of the earth's magnetic field during their migrations.

Why No Location Mentioned

You may wonder why I have not mentioned the location.  The reason is that all sharks are in danger from being over harvested by fisherman.  Schools of sharks such as the school I had encountered are in demand by the fishing fleet, not for meat, but for their fins.  The sharks are caught on long lines and pulled to the side of the boat, and a very sharp knife used to slice off their fins.  The doomed creature is then pushed away from the boat and left to die an agonising death.  The fins are used in shark fin soup which is a Chinese delicacy.

The People - The Future, People's Republic of China

I will end my story of my visit to China with an image I took at the People's Garden in Thames Town.  It was of an old woman, the great grandmother of the young child.  When she saw me she was reluctant to have her photograph taken, however, the young child was curious.  The old lady beamed when she realized that I wanted to photograph the young girl, and it was at this stage they both relaxed. 

LEFT:  Great grandmother spends time with the younger generation.

As I began to work out a good angle for the photograph, the young girl moved in close to the side of the old lady with a facial expression that to me spelt "defiance".  In combination with the old lady's "happy" face I realized that China is a nation for the people and those of the next generation.

Although my visit was short to Shanghai, I had witnessed complete polarisation of Chinese society, from the mega wealthy with their mighty speed boats navigating the Yangtze River alongside the Bund, to the newly weds whose prime concern was having their wedding photographs taken in a replica England.  Finally, I had spent time with normal Chinese fighting for a position within their society in which to support the next generation.  China is a place of people; 25 million live in Shanghai alone, which is roughly the population of my country, Australia. 

Whether the People's Republic will live up to it's name is unsure.  The nation has a long way to travel to measure equally with many of its western counterparts, especially in relation to global environmental issues.  However, environmental issues aside, it's easy to see that for the most part Chinese culture is vibrant  and long-lasting and has not as yet  been lost in the drive for western equivalency.

LEFT:  An old lady, who when young saw the beginnings of Shanghai, gazes toward Shanghai's  perceived future - a tall building surrounded in a cloak of pollution.

FALKLANDS

I am soon departing for the Falkland Islands off Agentina.  The  blog will then be back on its original theme  - willdife, wild places and conservation.

Chinese Dichotomies, People's Republic of China

Shanghai is the dichotomy between the old and the new.  Whilst the central city district argues for space to develop and construct modern, tall skyscrapers and strives to match or better the aesthetics of a western city, Shanghai’s outer regions provide a glimpse into everyday Chinese city life.

LEFT:  The new and the old. Modern skyscrapers loom over basic style accommodation.

Within a 5 minute taxi ride or underground tube ride from the central city you can discover an underworld vastly different to flash and glitz of the city central.  The outer city is networked with main streets, many lined with evergreen trees, and most busy with taxis, cars, bicycles, and motor scooters.  Shops fronts are almost endless and thriving sidewalk businesses common. 

I noted an old man who had established a locksmith business on the sidewalk; his tools were old as was his desk, but there was a constant stream of business coming his way.  Further along an old lady was busy repairing sheets with an ancient sewing machine.  The repaired sheets were hung for inspection and collection from the electrical posts along the street.  Further along the sidewalk a more modern business had evolved and a man was busy selling the latest releases of Hollywood movies.

It’s off these streets that you can wander along a seamlessly endless maze of smaller streets and alleys which lead to accommodation blocks, smaller businesses and street-side markets from which a dazzling variety of products are sold from plastic cups to live prawns and fish. 

I discovered a meat market along one of the alleys in which the remains of a poor animal were being unceremoniously cut into slabs of beef for the vendors to sell.  A large tree stump was the cutting board and several sharp knives were being used to fleece the meat into manageable pieces. 

LEFT:  Dumplings are the mainstay of Chinese take away cuisine and can incorporate almost anything!  The dumplings are steamed in large bamboo containers before being offered for sale.

Along  another alley I came across a throng of people all arguing and yelling as they purchased their daily supply of seafood; live prawns were held captive in small red plastic buckets whilst small fish and fresh water eels splashed about in tubs tantamount to freshness.  Although I strongly disagree with the process of keeping captive animals in pitiful conditions to sell, I realize that what I am witnessing is a vibrant society little changed for hundreds of years.  I walked to end of the alley and returned to the seafood market 30 minutes later only to find that the frenzy of activity had been short-lived, the people were gone and all that remained were some scales and fishy innards on the footpath!  It was as if an illegal activity had occurred and the culprits had scampered after the deals had been completed!

LEFT: Old Shanghai is mostly made from wood.  Despite the maze of alleys in the back streets, signage was prominent indicating street names and house numbers.

Although accommodation blocks are very obvious, with their collection of washing hanging out to dry, hidden around these cement monstrosities are the remains of Shanghai little changed from 80 years ago.  Narrow cement lined streets, not wide enough for a car lead to simple adjoined wooden structures with roofs tiled in shingles, wood or metal sheet.  These dwellings literally sit in the shadow of tall modern buildings.  The only resemblance of modern convenience is the satellite dish or television antennae.  

Parks and Gardens

As can be expected China is noisy, however, streets in which accommodation blocks are located are relatively quiet, despite the network of busy and noisy streets surrounding them.  I had bought a fruit bun in a busy street before turning along a side road to almost complete silence.  I was about to consume my purchase on the street when I noticed a sign that said “park”. 

LEFT:  An elderly man immersed in the ancient game of mahjong fails to notice as a foreigner points a camera lens in his direction.  Parks and gardens in China are people orientated and act as a respite from the noise and hype of modern Chinese life. 

Before you could enter he park you had to peruse the rules which were written in both Chinese and in Chinese English.  I dully noted that roller blades and roller skates were  prohibited as was food.  However, you were invited to dine in fine cuisine at the restaurant adjoining the park. 

Finishing my fruit bun (outside the park) I entered to find a small girl playing on roller skates! 

It soon became apparent that Chinese municipal parks do not have a western equivalent.  A rough cement path leads toward an area where elderly people are sitting playing mahjong – a board game as ancient as China itself,  before winding its way amongst dust and pollution covered shrubs and a few trees to an area where Ti Chi can be undertaken.  Ti Chi is seems to be practiced by everyone in China, and as such special areas are often set aside to practice this oriental form of relaxation. 

Adjacent to the Tie Chi section of the park are numerous exercise machines available for public use in addition to a number of old wooden benches.  Tired from wandering back alleys I decide to sit on a bench and observe Chinese daily life – at least amongst the elderly.  Interestingly, the sound of traffic had subsided, and I wondered if the thick cement walls surrounding the small park was the reason; I could even here the sound of a few cheerful birds whose chirping had become very obvious by their earlier absence.  Soon after, a loud electric saw intervened in the silence and looking toward the sound, I saw beside the park wall an industrious fellow busily making coffins.  The Chinese work and work as long as they make money!

Red Ribbons

One activity I found intruding was the Chinese propensity to hang red coloured ribbons from the trees in parks that support religious buildings.  The writing on the ribbons may seek enlightenment, help, or offer goodwill to someone departed.  In one park, I believe there were over 500 ribbons hanging from almost every tree surrounding a Buddhist shrine.  Although these ribbons are distinctly oriental from their appearance, I have witnessed similar occurrences in north America where indigenous Americans secure to tree limbs, offerings to appease Spirit Gods and departed spirits.

LEFT:  Long thin ribbons are pinned to trees and are talismans the living and deceased.

Communism

It’s very easy to forget that China’s real name is the Peoples Republic of China and that it’s Government is communist.  I have no interest is delving into the political structure of China as this topic, although interesting, requires far  more space and time than I can devote.  I did note on my very short visit the overwhelming number of officials  seemingly doing nothing other than making a presence by being visible; whether they be police officers, security guards, military personnel pedestrian helpers, or officials walking along the street or sitting drinking tea.  I was told that this is one of the methods that the Government uses to control the populous – just by being seen is to remind everyone that they are being watched.  Certainly, I did not walk more than 30 minutes without seeing one of these officials and it was obvious that they were watching you.  I have no doubt that should something unsavoury had occurred then the security forces would have be quick to react.

LEFT:  An official relaxes with his green tea.  Officials appear indescript and part of the surrounding the environment, but they represent the Government and are there for a reason.

Street Crossings are Unsafe

Pedestrian helpers, which in Australia are called Lollipop Officers  stand at most intersections and there sole responsibility is to assist you to cross the road safely, despite the fact that the light’s red to traffic and a green man is lit up suggesting it’s safe to cross.  The Chinese, at least in Shanghai, do not obey traffic regulations – period.  I was almost "run over and into"a few times attempting to cross the road at a pedestrian crossing.  Most of the cars will stop, however, bicycles and motor scooters are above the law and flit through the red lights taking advantage of a break in traffic.  I learn that in Shanghai when crossing any road, behave as a fighter pilot does and swivel your head 360 degrees to ensure nothing is about to run you down!

My next post will be the final segment of my trip to China and will look at the Chinese people.

Downtown Shanghai, People's Republic of China

Due to other commitments, my stay in urban China was short, however, I did have three days to explore the metropolis of what has been called the most dramatic city in the world’s most changing nation.  As indicated in an earlier post, Shanghai is a very cosmopolitan city that has developed into the epitome of western Chinese culture; Most of what is Shanghai is the biggest, the best and the brightest.  To represent this a friend coined the term “bling”; Shanghai has bling everywhere.

LEFT:  My trusty Lonely Planet Guide which opens you to delites that Shanghai offers.  This was taken from my apartment balcony and soon after you could not even see the buildings due to the pollution.

Christopher Isherwood in 1937 summered up Shanghai very well when he stated that “seen from the river, towering above their warships, the skyscrapers and impressive buildings of the Bund present, impressively, the façade of a great city.  But it is only a façade”. 

I discovered that much of what China shows the world is a façade.

Main Shopping Area

The main tourist/shopping region is as you would expect in any other major city; there are no surprises here. Large cement buildings stretch towards the sky whilst glass towers gleam in the sunlight. Advertising beckons to passing visitors to share their savings and purchase another unnecessary item to add to the growing collection of unessentials.  It’s a fact that the people of Shanghai are renown China wide as the “shoppers of China”; they live to shop - and you can literally purchase whatever you want here (just make sure it’s real and not a reproduction). 

Hawkers and Scams

You don’t have to wait long before hawkers single you out amongst a sea of black haired clone-like individuals in an attempt to sell you a reproduction Rolex watch, whilst in the more quiet areas of downtown, you maybe offered the services of a Chinese prostitute or be cajoled into speaking to a young Chinese girl wishing to practice her English. 

LEFT:  The ritz and glitz of Shanghai central.  Fashion conscious Chinese stroll through the maon shopping district.

The way this scam works is that a young attractive Chinese girl will approach you and ask to practice her English.  Most visitors will readily agree to this and before they know they are having an interesting conservation.  The girl will ask if you may like to visit a local coffee shop, share a coffee or tea and talk more.  Removed from the burden and boredom of work schedules most people agree.  The idea is that the girl will have you taste a variety of teas and then, with the help of the store owner, attempt to sell you the tea at a very high price.  Most smart travellers catch on very fast and make an exit, however, for the less initiated a large bill will await them before they can leave the premises.

The Bund and Financial District

The Bund area of Shanghai is one of the major stopping off points for anyone in Shanghai.  The bund was originally created to hold the banks of the meandering Yangze River at bay, and having accomplished this, has allowed development on both sides of the river.  On one side of the river is the marvellous buildings constructed in the early 19^th Century which depict Art Deco and Victorian architecture.  These buildings tell of a time when Shanghai danced the tune to British colonialism and sovereignty and companies such as the Dutch East India Company were prominent in world markets and trade.

ABOVE:  Night shot of the Shanghai Financial District.  Note the thunderbird look-alike Oriental Pearl Tower.  Obtaining a clean shot without a large freighter in the scene was difficult.

On the far side of the river, which is connected by an underground tunnel sporting such bright lights that make Hollywood’s Star Gate pale into insignificance, is the major financial district of Shanghai.  Here are constructed some of the tallest and oddest buildings on the planet.  At night, they are lit in varying colours amidst laser lights and huge billboards (the size of a drive-in  theatre screen) promoting “I love Shanghai and Samsung.  Apart from the obvious glass towers and tall skyscrapers there is an assortment of oddities such as the Oriental Pearl Tower that looks more belonging to the Thunderbirds Are Go film set.

LEFT:  Accommodation blocks stand out in stark contrast against a yellow backdrop of aerial pollution.

Photographing the bund area is enjoyable – mainly because there are people everywhere; for the most part Chinese tourists on holiday in Shanghai!  The city skyline is well worth the effort to see, provide visibility isn’t minimal due to  aerial pollution.  I was keen to take an elevator to the observation deck of one of the towers, but refrained from doing so when I noted that visibility was so poor that you could hardly see the top of the tower from ground level.

I was amazed to watch the volume and frequency of sea-going boats that traversed the Yangze River adjacent to the bund and city.  There was never, in the 4 hours I was here, a break of more than 2 minutes without shipping!  Everything from coal carrying tugs and barges, to military boats, police launches and massive cargo carrying ocean-going ships.  It seemed as if the world was coming to Shanghai – in a boat!

Pollution and Rubbish

You cannot be at the centre of manufacturing, have a population of 25 million people, and have the largest growing economy on earth without pollution; that’s fact.  The aerial pollution in my opinion wasn’t good, however, speaking with Chinese they claimed that the days I was in Shanghai the pollution was minimal.  I learnt that China had closed many of the factories in the district in addition to minimising the number of vehicles entering the city to reduce aerial pollution whilst the China International Expo was being held. 

According to Reuters, "During the Expo, the government was very conscious about our air quality and wanting to give foreign visitors a good impression," said Lisa Jin, a student at East China Normal University in Shanghai.  "But after the Expo they have become lax and do not seem to care about the air quality."

LEFT:  Motorcycles parked in front of accomodation blocks in Shanghai.  Exhaust pollutants are a major cause of aerial pollution in the city.

I think I saw part blue sky once.  For the most part it was as if I was walking in a yellow fog.  Sadly, the Chinese do not seem to be too concerned with the pollutants entering the atmosphere, however, if China is to continue along the superpower highway then eventually, the authorities will need to address this ever-pressing question.

Paradoxically, I was very surprised that city streets and the Yangze River were clean of the normal rubbish too often observed in western cities.  I don’t think I saw a cigarette butt and the volume of street litter (paper and bags) was very minimal.  Watching the Yangze River flow along the edge of the Bund I was pleased to not to see very much floating rubbish.  This is in contrast to other nations I have visited: Indonesia, parts of the Philippines and Tonga which had streets and land literally carpeted in day to day rubbish. 

I have read that Shanghai recycles approximately 80% of it’s rubbish – no doubt this is what happens to the seemingly endless supply of plastic drinking water bottles.  As to the water quality of the Yanze River, I would be foolhardy to comment, but I was informed that the tap water was not a beverage.

In my next post we’ll explore some of the dichotomies associated with Shanghai.